The transformer CK 1009B

The two types of lead in wires

left is the one with spade lugs at both ends

right has junction splice connector on one end and spade lugs on the other

Both have an inline switch to turn on and off the power.

 

This is my handy test strip. It is a strip of pine about 3" long and an inch wide.

First I attached a strip of Cir Kit tape from end to end.

Then I installed a junction splice on one end with the holes facing the end.

Then I installed a pound in plug.

Then a pound in pin light

and finally, two brass screws-one in each tape run and staggered.   

 

I plugged in the lead in wire to the junction splice and turned on the inline switch.

The illumination of the pound in light tells me that there is power to the handy strip.

When I want to test a bulb to determine if it is good, I stick the bare wires in the pound in plug.

 

It is not advisable to solder light wires because the lights burn out and are not permanent

I use a Cir Kit 12 volt soldering iron. Its easier to handle, lighter weight and fits in my tool kit.

When I want to solder a connection I clip the red and black clips on the end of the soldering iron onto the brass screws. The screws are staggered to prevent the possibility of the ends touching and shorting out the system.  The only connections that should be soldered are those that are permanent.

 

Solder comes in different types.

Always use solder that is made specifically for electrical connections.

I recommend Cir Kit solder because it melts faster and at a lower temperature with the Cir Kit soldering iron above.

Soldering

Q: So when is it advisable to solder electrical joints?

A: Anytime you want the connection to be permanent.

	Soldering Irons There are numerous soldering irons on the market. The top one is a 110 Volt gun that is usually used for larger jobs.   The one in the middle is found in most hobby stores and is adequate.   The one that is recommended for miniatures is the one on the bottom. It is a 12 volt iron and connects to a typical transformer.
	Solder The first rule of soldering anything electrical is to always use solder that is made for electrical. NEVER use any other kind.   The two types of solder shown above are both for electrical. The one on the left is made by Cir Kit and has a low melting point. That makes it much easier and quicker to use. The one on the right is a larger diameter solder and takes a bit longer to melt. It also leaves a larger deposit of melted solder.
	Connections The 12 volt soldering iron connects to a Lead-In wire, which is connected to a 12 volt transformer.
	Here the connection clips are clipped onto the bare end of a Lead-In wire and then the rubber sleeves (red and black) are pulled over the connection (see the black one). The ends of the Lead-In wire do not have to be bare wire. If your Lead-In wire has spade lugs just clip the ends of the soldering iron onto each of the two spade lugs.
	If your Lead-In wire has prongs to attach to a junction splice make a tester stick like the one in the top picture and connect the Lead-In wire to the junction splice at one end and the clips to the brass screws at the other.   Remember to slip the rubber sleeves over the ends of the connections to reduce the possibility of the ends touching each other and causing a short. Notice the brass screws are staggered to help separate the two clips.
	Once the soldering iron is connected it needs to be turned on. Your Lead-In wire has an inline on/off switch for this purpose.
	When the iron is heated, the temperature is hot enough to damage some surfaces. A clip from the Helping Hands or a ceramic tile are good for this purpose.
	Soldering The the second rule of soldering is to pre-heat the surface you are going to solder before you apply the solder. If you dont-your connection can work loose.
	Pre-heat Lift the end of the iron (Quickly) Place the solder on the wire Melt the solder with the tip of the iron It cools very rapidly so be sure to move the solder coil away from the surface as soon as you have enough solder on the wire. A good soldering job takes practice....bottom line!!
	Here there is a AA battery pack holding 2 AA batteries. The wires are soldered to the copper tape. The ends of a 3 volt light are taped to the copper illumiating the light. Remember...the battery connection is permanent....the bulb will burn out so it is taped in place so it can easily be changed.

An on/off switch works like a drawbridge. In the on position it allows the flow of electricity to continue on-just like the traffic continues when the bridge is down.

When the switch is in the off position the electricity is stopped because a gap is created in the line....just like when the drawbridge is up...traffic has to stop.

The top picture is of two on/off switches.

The one on the left is a Mini Slide Switch from Radio Shack.

The one on the right is a mini slide switch from Cir Kit

Lower picture shows the prongs that are used to make the connection.

The major difference between a two prong and three prong switch is to allow for a more convenient position of the switch. Both do the same.

 To install an on/off switch in an electrical run of flat tape you have to create a break in the line.

Remove about 1/4" of the tape on ONE SIDE ONLY.

Then remove about 1/4" of the mylar that is covering the copper ends on that same side.

Careful not to cut the copper.

 Bare both ends of both of the 32 guage wire lengths.

Twist one end of one wire thru the hole in the middle prong and secure by twisting.

Do the same wth the other wire attaching to one or the other outside prong.

Solder both of them in place so the wires don't come loose.

(Here's the perfect occasion for soldering)

 Next step is to solder the wires to the ends of the exposed copper tape.

This illustration is shown with the switch and wires exposed. In real application the switch and wires are concealed in an exterior wall.

 This is a picture of a concealed wire and switch.

The red wire attached to the battery holder was connected to the right run of the copper tape.

The black wire from the battery holder was cut in half. The part that was connected to the battery holder was soldered to the end prong of a switch. The other half of the black wire was connected first, to the middle prong of the switch and the other end of it was soldered to the left run of the copper tape.

The switch is interupting the power in the BLACK WIRE so that it can be turned on and off.